It was raining the last time I saw Paris – a soft, quiet, Autumn rain that was always comfortable and welcomed that time of year.
October always reminds me of Paris – I guess it’s because this is the best month of the year to visit… something I used to do with some regularity.
Paris is one of the most unique and one of the friendliest large cities of the world and the people are absolutely wonderful.
We will take a look at a honeymooner’s Paris – the sights and sounds – small unique places to visit and intimate experiences to share with your love. We will take you to some of the world’s best known sights, take you on strolls that few visitors have experienced and tell you about a lifestyle that is made for lovers.
Let’s start with when to go and how to get there. The time to go to Paris is NOT in the summer. It’s not that you wouldn’t enjoy Paris in the summer it’s just that there are too many tourists, too many hot days and (in August) too few Parisians (this is their "get away to the country" month). The perfect time to visit is the Fall, preferably October, and the late Spring, preferably the end of April and beginning of May.
Coincidentally, the late Spring and early Fall times also are what the airlines call "shoulder season" which means it costs less than during the high tourist season but more than during the winter months.
Paris is a an expensive city to visit but if you know where to go and what to do you will find that you aren’t spending that much more than at any other top resort or destination.
Paris will easily occupy a week or more of your time – and that’s just for starters. If you decide Paris is for you, don’t cut yourself short – the experience of Paris is something that is well worth a full week of your new life together.
Paris is one of those cities that must be "experienced", not just visited, and to experience Paris you will walk, take a bus, take a boat and travel throughout the best and nicest subway system in the world – but – mostly you will walk!
While walking is by far the best way to see Paris, point to point travel is most often accomplished by using the subway system known as the MÉTRO.
Metro MystiqueHere is the finest subway system in the world – especially if you are a visitor. It is straight forward, simple and fun.
You’ll want to purchase a 5-day pass called Paris Visite. You can buy this “pass”at any of the main Metro stations. You’ll get unlimited city travel (metro & bus) as well as a few discounts to other places of interest.
Metro stations are literally everywhere in Paris and seldom further than a few blocks apart. The trains run from about 5:30 in the morning to 12:30 a.m. to most destinations. Trains run as often as every two minutes but seldom will you have to wait more then five to seven minutes at off-peak times of the day.
The Metro is a series of 15 separate lines which, simply put, have trains running back and forth between two end points. Most of the lines criss-cross making it simple for you to change trains (and change direction at the same time). All 15 lines are color-coded and numbered (1 to 15). To make the system work for you all you need do is find the station you want to go to, find the name of the line that intersects that station, follow that color-coded line to the end terminus where you find the name of that line. The stations where two or more lines meet have well marked signs saying correspondance which direct you between lines.
Before you start out memorize the name of the end-of-the-line terminus in the direction you want to go - when changing trains (if necessary at all) just follow the signs saying “corresondance”, followed by the name of that end-of-the-line terminus.
Your
first day in Paris should include a short acclamation of the Métro, a trip to the Étoile, and a stroll down the world-famous Champs Elysées. All of this will give you a chance to, almost simultaneously, catch your breath, be overwhelmed, and to settle back into the Parisian’s lifestyle.
While all of this may sound like you are about to run yourself ragged on your honeymoon, you will soon see how leisurely a pace this really is – but wait, I’m getting ahead of myself – let’s start with your arrival in this "city of lights".
Traveling from the U.S. odds are you will arrive in Paris in the late morning and, odds are, by the time you get settled in to your hotel you will be hungry, excited and tired; and not necessarily in that order.
Plan to take it pretty easy the rest of this afternoon and evening. Get something "light" to eat (see foods in next month’s Part III of this article) and then take one of the most fascinating strolls of a lifetime – you are about to get your first true taste of Paris!
By all means plan to learn where the nearest Métro station is to your hotel and how to take the Métro to "The Etoilé" or more formally "Charles de Gaulle, Etoilé" where you will come out at one of Paris’ major landmarks, and its national symbol of unity, the Arc de Triomphe.
The arch stands at the center of "the Étoile", a confluence of twelve major streets, but most importantly for you, the Étoile sits at the top of one of the world’s most famous and glamorous boulevards. Before you stroll down the Champs Elysées take the pedestrian tunnel to the center of the Étoile and visit the Arc de Triomphe - this is where you will find one of the best overviews of the city. A 284 step climb takes you to the viewing terrace over 150 feet up – better yet – pay a few franc and take the elevator to the top – you’ll have plenty of time to climb steps in the days to come!
At the top of the Arc take your time and drink in the sights. Looking down the Champs Elysées you will see the world famous art museum, the Louvre and the cathedral of Notre Dame just beyond – and then off to your right, there it is, the Eiffel Tower and, in total contrast to the history in front of you, behind you and in the distance is the modern business center of Paris, Le Defense.
Once you’ve had your fill of breathtaking views return to the base of the Arc and take the pedestrian tunnel that marks your way onto the Camps Elyées and start your stroll down the right hand side of the boulevard - by this time of day this is the side that is in the shade but this is also where you will, almost immediately find the Office of Tourism and the "American Drugstore".
Stop in both of these places for a few minutes. In the drugstore browse and see what’s what in Paris. Next, go into the "Office de Tourisme" and make your reservations for the only bus ride you’ll want to take in Paris. Parisvision offers inexpensive 1/2 day, actually about 3 1/2 hours, tours of the city and they are well worth the time and money. While we are not big on organized tours, this trip gives you a great overview of the city as well as helping you decide where you will want to go back to and spend more personal time.
While at this office I suggest you also pick up tickets for a Bateaux Moches cruise on the Seine (though I do not recommend the evening dinner cruise because I feel its too expensive and offers a meal that is not very good). The afternoon cruises give you good sights and the evening cruises (that is the cruise-only, not the dinner cruise)give you good lights - weather permitting we prefer the non-meal evening cruise.
Now, let’s start the stroll!! The Champs Elysées slopes gently down hill from the Arc de Triomphe to the Place de la Concorde at the entrance to the Tuileries Gardens and the base of the boulevard. The distance is just over two kilometers (let’s say a mile and a half max) with sights and sounds all along the way.
Between the Arc and the first major intersection with the Avenue George V (super posh street going off to the right) are dozens of upper end banking interests, car dealerships, shops, cafes, and (across the street on the other side of the Champs) a couple of very interesting shopping malls – just for fun, on another day, try the mall with the McDonald’s in it – but once you get to the corner of Avenue George V and the Champs Elysées – STOP – after all this is Paris, you are on one of the major streets of the world – and there is FOUQUETS a cafe which is a favorite haunt of movie and TV celeb’s. This is NOT inexpensive BUT you are on your honeymoon, this is your first day in Paris, you are in the heart of the action – so – stop, have a cup of coffee, a beer, or a glass of house wine and do what the Parisians do best – people watch!!!
Once you have taken in the sites and sounds from your café (don’t miss looking for the world famous night club "Lido"across the Champs Elysées and a bit back up the street) continuing walking down the Champs Elysées and watch the gradual changes as the boulevard goes from highly commercial to a more relaxed and subtle atmosphere. At the Rond Point des Champs-Élysées, where the Ave. Montaigne (the avenue of haute couture, with Nina Ricci and Christian Dior heading a list of the very best of the very best salons of the area) joins the boulevard, you will find the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais on your right. The Petit Palais is home to the Museum of Fine Arts while the Grand Palais (glass dome) houses exhibitions and special exhibits –
both of theses buildings were built for the exhibition of 1900. If you cross to the far side of the Champs look for the Galerie Élysées – this is the forerunner and model from which all modern day shopping malls were derived – a great place to browse!!
Continue down the Champs and enjoy the gardens and fountains of the Élysées Palace (on your left) home of the president of France. As you approach the Place de la Concorde the boulevards spreads out further and further with more and more garden areas.
At the Place de la Concorde you want to make your way to the very center, where the obelisk stands. From this vantage point you can look back up the Champs Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe, then turn around and with your back to the Arc look through the Tuileries to see yet another Arc de Triomphe called the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel – symmetry is everything here – the smaller Arc at the far end of the gardens will appear the same size as the large Arc at the Étoile – across the Seine stands the Palais Bourbon (home of the French Senate) and with your back now toward the Senate you see its counterpart Le Madeleine. This is considered to be one of the most beautiful open squares in the world!!!
We’ll leave you here on the square for now. The Place de la Concorde is a hub for the Métro which means you can quickly get to just about anywhere from here.
There are many more strolls ahead – great little bistros and out-of-the-way restaurants to visit – plus some of the world’s great sites – Paris by day and Paris by Night – no matter how you look at it Paris is a city for lovers and a perfect honeymoon destination.
Day Two - While you will probably sleep-in the first morning, plan to spend the afternoon on a Parisvision bus tour of the city.
It is a 1/2 day ride that allows you to get a highlight tour of the city while also getting a feel for the history of the city. If you haven’t already purchased your tour tickets (see November’s Paris article) you can do so late in the morning for the afternoon tour. Once you have completed the tour you will probably want to take a break at a local café, return to your "favorite" site of the tour to do a little more in depth sightseeing and then do a leisurely dinner, Parisian style.
Though we will discuss foods and dining in a later article, on your first full day in Paris you may want to get a taste of the local color with an evening visit to the Latin Quarter on the left bank. Here, in the pedestrian-only streets bordered by the famous Boulevard Saint Germain to the South and the river Seine on the North, you will find restaurant after restaurant and café after café. Here you will find Italian, Greek, Lebanese, French, Moroccan and more, and more, and more – take your pick, check out the menus and prices before you go in (menus generally are posted on the door or a stand in front of the establishment). On any given evening here, you will find street mimes, musicians, jugglers, and fire-eaters. After dinner, if you have the time and energy to explore the area, you will find well-preserved Roman Baths just across the Saint Germain, or you can walk a few blocks west along the Saint Germain for desert at either of two very trendy and famous cafés, Café des Deux Magots or, directly across the street, Café de Flore or if you can’t handle desert yet then continuing along the boulevard west you come to the ancient church of St. Germain du Pres where on most spring, summer and fall evenings artists display their wares along the fence of the old church (take note) for the tourists. (Great sightseeing but this is not the place to buy.) BUT – all of this can wait for another evening – tonight we sightsee!!! From the Latin Quarter along Blvd. St. Germain there are numerous METRO stations (that marvelous mode of transportation discussed in last month's issue) and a METRO station means mobility.
You will want to go to "the Alma" or more precisely the Metro station Alma-Marceau or its "left bank" counterpart, Pont de l’Alma. From the Latin Quarter’s nearest metro station, St. Michel, you have a strait shot to Pont de l’Alma where you can take a quick walk across the bridge, turn left and jump onboard your evening cruise on the Seine, the Bateau Mouche – note – there are other Bateau cruises available, most notably the one hour cruises departing from the right bank of the Pont Neuf.
These cruises, while very commercial, are very good. You see Paris from a whole new perspective and even with the hundreds of seats and, often, hundreds of tourists, this can still be very romantic. You will see the lights of Paris and you will see Notre Dame from the river, the Isle St. Louis, the Eiffel Tour, the Statue of Liberty (that’s right – Eiffel built the framework and France gave it to the U.S. as a gift!!!), the Louvre museum, and on and on – the cruise is really nice, really, fun, really inexpensive and really something you really need to do – really!
By this night’s end you should have a general overview and feel for the city. There is much more to come and many more hours and days of experiencing a new way of life – which actually dates back to the days of early Rome.
With an overview of the city, by day and night, now out of the way you will find Paris even more romantic and more charming than you had previously imagined.
Be sure you have taken the time to learn how to best use the Metro.
Now you will have a chance to really see the city - through the eyes of its people!
Over the next few days you can stroll along the Seine, visit one of the world's finest art museums, walk the early morning markets of La Mouffetard and picnic in gardens filled with Rodin's sculptures surrounded by a Medic palace and fountains.
Visit Monmarte, the home of world-renowned artists and a world class church. See Paris from atop the Eiffel tower – see Paris from the rooftops at Printemps, one of the two major department stores of the city.
Get lost in the maze of shops in the new Les Halles pedestrian shopping district – Get lost on the tiny Isle St. Louis and don't forget to stop for the ice cream.
Dine at world-famous gourmet haunts like Le Train Bleu or the Parisian’s common man's chain of restaurants known as Le Boeuf sur le Toit. Visit Lautrec’s Moulin Rouge and Hemingway’s jazz clubs on the left bank. Shop in the bustling new area of renovated Les Halles or the more traditional (but still bustling) rival department stores of Printemps and the Galleries Lafayette.
Where should you start? – Any where you want to ñ it's all great stuff and can be equally enjoyed by the rich and not so rich and the not, not so rich. Paris is a city for lovers - ALL lovers.
Day Three - Let’s start with a day of art and artists; a city within the city, Montmartre - and yet another spectacular view of Paris from the top of the Sacre Coeur. In the shadows of the Sacre Coeur is the small artists’ square named Place du Tertre crowded with artists and small cafés; you have arrived in the heart of artistic history. From this square, and the blocks surrounding it, the likes of Picasso, Pissarro Renoir, Utrillo and Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized this district.
After you have strolled Montmartre go back down the butte into the heart of town for a visit to the Louvre art museum ñ the Mona Lisa, the Winged Victory, and enough Rubin’s, Rembrandt’s, et al, to keep any art lover satisfied for years to come.
Day Four - More sights and sounds today and we recommend an early start. Take the METRO to the Palais De Chaillot (Trocadero Station) and you will have one of the best (and most photographed) views of Paris - the Eiffel Tower - this location commands a view of the tower from high above the Seine with the Palais gardens between you and the river. Walk down, through the gardens, cross the bridge and get ready to ascend to the top of the world. Don’t be put off if the lines are long – they move at a pretty good clip and the wait is well worth it. From the Eiffel Tower stroll over to one of the two METRO stations in the area (one to the right and one to the left along the Seine) and head for the St. Michele station - here, once you’ve crossed onto the island of the Cité you are in front of the catherdral of Notre Dame even if you stopped here on your 1/2 day sightseeing tour - go inside and, this time, take the stairs to the top (not for the faint of heart) to enjoy yet another of those fantastic views you find throughout Paris. Once back on the ground, as you leave the Cathedral turn left and walk around to the back of Notre Dame (still on the Ile de la Cité) not only will you have a great close-up view of the flying buttresses of Notre Dame but, more importantly, just ahead and slightly off to your left is a little bridge connecting to the birthplace of Paris, the Ile St Louis. Cross over onto the Ile St Louis and take the middle street (the Rue St Louise en L’ile) this street, with its very fashionable boutiques is also a mecca of great little cafés and speciality shops – the one store that has to be one of our very favorite in Paris sits at No. 31 and is named Berthillon – while its hours and days open can be a little unusual, should you find it open you will also find some of the greatest sorbets, ices and ice creams on earth!! Once you have had your fill of this quiet little island in the heart of Paris exit at the far end of Rue St Louise en L’ile and turn left crossing the Pont de Sully.
Your next stop should be the oldest, and one of the prettiest squares in Paris, the Place des Vosges. Its a short walk from the Isle St. Louis and well worth it . It is in this setting, at No. 6, that Victor Hugo wrote Les Misérables.
After four days of strolling through Paris you should have a pretty good feel for the city, its major sites and how to best use the Metro.
Now that you’ve gotten the basics out of the way its time to do a little shopping and to take the time to get laid back and to do "a day in the life of" a Parisian.
Day Five - SHOPPING, like so many other things in Paris, isn’t quite like shopping anywhere else in the world. Shopping is as much a sightseeing experience as it is a shopping experience. Today we’ll take you "window shopping" along a few of the world’s best known shopping streets, shopping at two of the premier department stores of Paris (where the Parisians shop) and on to the brash and wonderful Les Halles, with nearly 200 shops (above and under ground).
Start today at the Metro station Palais-Royal (next to the Louvre museum) exiting directly in front of the best known theater in Paris, La Comédie Française. Walk through the archway to the right of the theater and you will enter the gardens of the Palais-Royal. There are three galleries (walking areas with shops) around the plaza (designed after the famous Piazza San Marco in Venice) and all three offer shops and restaurants and history. It is from the Palais-Royal that, on July 13, 1789, the call-to-arms initiated the French Revolution. The most notable restaurant of the Palais is in the Galerie Beaujolais and happens to be one of the most notable restaurants of all Paris, Le Grand Véfour. The shops (all small and artsy) abound and make for absolutely great window shopping in a fantastic setting.
Once you’ve taken the time to stroll all the way around the gardens exit the same way you entered. Cross in front of the La Comédia Française and continue walking straight along the Rue St-Honoré. As you cross onto the Rue St-Honoré don’t miss one of the best views of the Opera, to your right (up Avenue de l’Opera). Continue walking along St-Honoré – you are heading into history (both old and new)– and into one of the wealthiest areas (and shopping areas) of Paris.
As you stroll the Rue take time to stop and enjoy coffee and a pastry from any one of the numerous shops scattered among and between the lingerie, luggage and perfume stores. When you get to number 233 on the Rue St-Honoré, E Goyard Aine, go in this, one of the oldest shops in Paris. While from the outside it appears to be just another luggage store you will a number of unique and unusual gift items scattered among the history of the shop.
Once you arrive at the intersection of the Rue St-Honoré and Rue de Castiglione turn right and you will enter what is undoubtedly the wealthiest square in Paris (and one of the wealthiest in the world) - the Place Vendone - with its central column (1806) topped with the statue of Napoleon as Caesar. To the left side of the square is the most famous (and now infamous) hotel in the world, The Ritz.
Returning to continue your stroll down the Rue St-Honoré you will through history and some of the world’s finest shops with names like Morabito (the rival of Hermes), Lacoste, the Hotel France et Choiseul (where FDR and Eleanor spent their honeymoon), Cadolle (while not a household name) is world renowned as the lingerie shop to royalty. It was in this shop, at No 14 Rue Cambon, that history was shaped (literally) just over 100 years ago when a Mdm. Cadolle, a seamstress, invented the brassiére!
Robespierre lived at No. 400, now a restaurant by the same name – and then you come to the world’s greatest toy store, Au Nain Bléu - take the time to stroll this store even if you have no interest in toys!
The St-Honoré changes names somewhere around here and becomes the Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. Continue on the Faubourg St-Honoré all the way to the Palais de l’Élysée and you will see the names and places of Gucci, Cartier, Lancome, Guy Laroche, Courréges, Pierre Cardin, Ted Lapidus and Yves St. Laurent – you will pass by the British Embassy, the American Ambassador’s residence and more.
Work your way back a few blocks to the Rue Royal. You will turn left here and walk toward La Madeleine, on 18th century church in the style of a Greek temple - BUT - before turning left, look to your right. The the right hand side of the Rue Royal, just before it disappears into the Place de la Concord is one of the best known (and most expensive) restaurants in the world, Maxim’s.
Walk to the church, La Madeleine, and walk around to the right of the church (you want to end up on the far side of the church where the Rue Royal changes names and becomes the Rue Tronchet) and take time for a quick glance into one of the more expensive department stores in Paris, Aux Trois Quartier, then continue up Rue Tronchet two blocks to Blvd Hausman. At the intersection of Tronchet and Hausman (but on Hausman, across the street to your right) is one of the great department stores of Paris, Printemps.
While New York has had its department store rivals (Macy’s and Gimbel), Paris has Au Printemps and, just a block to your right along Blvd Hausman, Galleries Lafayette.
Enter Printempts (our favorite between the two) and get a store flier (in English) to help you through the store - but - whether you get the flier or not you will want to head to the sixth floor to the food hall (if not for lunch at least for a snack, and, if not for a snack at least for the view)!
Printemps was built in 1865 and is the prototype for all department stores that followed. In 1923 the domed roof (in the food hall) was added and is not a historic monument!!! If you can find your way out onto the roof (exit to the roof from the food hall) you will have a view of Paris that few tourists ever see, from nearly rooftop levels.
If a "food court" is not your idea of a Parisian’s lunch try Le Pub, next door in the Galleries Lafayette. Le Pub has waitress service, good food and reasonable prices.
Between Printemps and Galleries Lafayette is the Metro and rail station of Havre Caumartin. Once you have satisfied your department store urges and had a chance to grab a bite to eat your next shopping/sightseeing experience is along the RER express (or metro) line to Chatalet-Les-Halles.
Les Halles is a perfect example of taking a run-down, undesirable area of the city and making it one of the most successful and thriving shopping districts of any city. Nearly 200 shops, restaurants, cafes, theaters, and art galleries make this pedestrian mall one of Paris’ favorites. Take your time to stroll the area and walk the streets of the area. Keep following the signs for the Centre National d’Art et de Culture George Pompidou or Beaubourg as it has most recently been called. The Pompidou Center (Beaubourg) was a late 1970’s architectural marvel that first took on the nickname of "The Gas Works". While some Parisians joked about the origin of the nickname being from the food found at the top floor, self-service restaurant, the nickname actually came from the unusual and daring architectural feature of putting ALL the conduits (air conditioning, electrical, etc.) on the OUTSIDE of the building in pipes - ergo making the structure look like a gas factory…nevertheless, today Beaubourg has become the number one tourist attraction in the city!!!
Among other things Beaubourg houses the National Museum of Modern Art offering Picasso, Chagall, Warhol, Matisse, Bonnard, and much, much more.
Take time to not only visit the Beaubourg but also stop for a while on the plaza just outside the structure. Day in and day out you will find street entertainers doing their thing - everything from musical groups to mimes and from poets to acrobats. The plaza will give you as much insight into Paris and will the Beaubourg.
Before you move on be sure to take the escalator to the top floor bar for refreshments and more views of the city!
As you exit the Beaubourg turn to your right and walk a short distance to Quartier de l’Horloge - the last stop in your day of shops and shopping. One of the highlights of this shopping mall is an enormous clock that every hour reveals a life-sized warrior doing battle with one or more elements (symbolized by a bird, a crab or a dragon) at 6 p.m. the warrior does battle with all three elements.
By now you should be ready for a break - but - if you are ready for dinner you can either return to Les Halles (we recommend Au Pied de Cochon at No 6 Rue Coquilliére and it’s open 24-hours a day!) or a stroll down Rue Beaubourg brings you to the Hotel de Ville and a quick walk to one of the many excellent café/restaurants on the Isle St. Louis.
Day Six - With a full day of shopping/sightseeing behind you, today you will do what the Parisians do best – relax and people watch!!!
This morning take the metro to Censier Daubenton (on the Mairie D’Ivry line). Exiting the station, off to your left you will see a small old church, St Médard. By walking around to the front of the church and facing the front doors you will be orienting yourself at the base of the escarpment known by Parisians as le Mouffe. This is one of the early morning markets where Parisians come daily to shop for food.
To your left, as you face St. Médard, is Rue Mouffetard. Start walking up this sloping street stopping along the way to buy some cheeses here, some fruits, there, some deli meats, a bottle of wine, etc. Also, don’t overlook the little boutiques that have settled in among the vendors. Many of these boutiques have some excellent buys.
This morning stroll can last for two or three hours and at the end, at the top of the Mouffe the street becomes Rue Descartes and one block later intersects with Rue Clovis. A left on Clovis and one block later you arrive at the Pantheon, resting place of one of the greatest of French writers, Victor Hugo. At the front, a street deadends into the Pantheon. This street is Rue Soufflot and it leads out to the Luxembourg Gardens, you destination for lunch in the park.
The Luxembourg Gardens are called the "playground of the left bank" and hosts a large reflecting pool, numerous fountains, many bronze sculptures of Rodin (including The Thinker), the Luxembourg Palace (the home of the senate) and a strong Italian influence due to the remodeling accomplished by Marie de Médicis following the death of her husband King Henri IV.
Spend a few hours in the gardens, eating, strolling, people watching and relaxing then walk out the front of the gardens to visit the second largest church in Paris (after Notre Dame) St Sulpice. Three blocks further north from St. Sulpice you arrive at the Boulevard Saint Germain and the church of St. Germain des pres. Turn right and you will be retracing your footsteps of just a week ago when you arrive in Paris. If you haven’t yet had "dinner on the left bank" just a few blocks further down the Blvd. St. Germain are the famous eateries of Café des Deux Magots and its main rival, just across the street, Café de Flore.
Day Seven - So much to do and so little time to do it in! This is likely your last full day in Paris. We haven’t covered many of the museums (that is a week in itself) and we haven’t gone outside of Paris to any one of a half a dozen chateaux and we haven’t spent an evening on the town. What we have done is just scratch the service – just given you enough insight to want more.
We leave this day open because everyone has their own thing. You may want to spend the day at the Palace of Versailles (something that most people don’t want to miss) or spend the day horseback riding in the Bois de Boulogne or walking along the Seine!
Tonight you may want to spend at some of the jazz clubs on the left bank or at the Cabaret at Moulin Rouge or Lido.
You may want to finish shopping (just remember duty free shopping at the airport means less expensive perfumes, etc) or return to your favorite site.
Once you have experienced Paris you will have to come back – it’s just that simple – it’s just that beautiful.
Au Voir
